How & When to Prune Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are flowers that suit the garden of every man interested in botanical pursuits. By pruning them time after time, they do well throughout the year. At Epoxy flooring Newcastle offices, there are some hydrangeas planted in the front garden that make the yard very welcoming and beautiful. Yet hydrangeas are the sort of flower that tends to have the gardeners double-minded as to their pruning and upkeep. Some types are to be pruned in the scorching months of summer. Then there is the variety that is meant to be pruned in the pleasant spring season or autumn. It all ultimately depends on several factors. Differentiating the sort of hydrangea you have and what kind of treatment you ought to give opens up a whole pandora’s box. 

As far as hydrangeas are concerned, there are two sorts. There is the kind that blossoms in spring. Then there is another kind which blooms in the fall season. Each of these has its unique pruning method which any gardener worth his salt ought to wrap his head around. Those hydrangeas which reach maturity in spring ought to be pruned in fall. Allow the buds and high growth areas to remain intact though. Also, cut any different areas of growth. It ought to be pruned in the winter and spring seasons for the sort which blooms in autumn. Prune some more than you would the first kind mentioned above. 

There is a problem with not pruning your hydrangeas. They won’t blossom in spring next year. When to prune hydrangeas, they often get asked because they look gross during the winter months. Also, they don’t bloom in the summer heat if they are not pruned. Finally, since hydrangeas are standard in gardens with shrubbery or two, they need pruning as all shrubs do. Yet you ought to never prune at the wrong time since they won’t appear when the time comes for them to do so. Besides like a haircut causes the hair to grow even thicker and luxuriant, pruning lends strength and more extraordinary flowering ability to hydrangeas.  

Pruning is an activity that occurs ideally when the flowers begin to lose their colour. The earlier this action is taken, the better it is. Remove any extraneous woody twigs and odds and ends for the ultimate pruning. Do however leave a bit of the older structure intact so that new stuff could grow on it. Another thing to always remember is that one type of hydrangea produces its flowers on old lignin while the other type produces them on new lignin. Old lignin is the kind that has remained intact since the last season. New lignin is the type that has developed recently in the current season. 

Hydrangeas such as Mophead, Big Leaf, Lacecap and Oakleaf flower on old lignin. In the best of conditions, hydrangeas ought to take root in your garden under circumstances when pruning would not be needed at all. This requires open and vacant areas of fresh soil where there is no competition from other plants or shrubs. This way the hydrangea can grow unimpeded to its full version. The blossoms and growth will be steady and even season after season. It is an ideal situation, and in real life where plants encroach from all sides, the hydrangeas will need pruning. 

Old lignin hydrangeas start their growth cycle in August and September. The process of removing older flowers which have faded is termed deadheading. It should be done with care. The question of the correct method of pruning is a bit tricky. If there is any rule that has withstood the test of time, it is that the weak stems have got to go. Start with them first. Also, get rid of any rotten or tangled branches. The old lignin ought to remain since it is the very site on which the new blooms will grow.  Then there is the new lignin blooming hydrangeas. The perfect thing about these is that they bloom every year whether you give them some TLC or not. If you still feel the need to prune them (to stay on the safe side) do it in the fall season. They will then bloom in spring with renewed vim and vitality. 

Should You Buy a Compost Bin or DIY?

In the context of your green garden with its multiple colourful flowers in a row, compost is the perfect catalyst. Not only does it enrich the soil beyond belief, but it also perks up the wellness of your shrubs and bushes. Compost is the best way of allowing the ground to have a turnover rate. 

Now, the question is whether you ought to buy pre-made compost materials from the market or make a compost heap or bin all by yourself? It all depends on your situation and what you expect. Compost paraphernalia in a bag can be bought from a plant nursery or garden supply store. The only issue, if any, is the cost price which is a bit steep. Then there are the compost materials which your local government body is willing to sell at a reliable rate. This contains all sorts of things like leaves and branches. 

There are several types of compost methods. There is the compost heap. Then there is the compost bin. Here you turn the mulch several times to mix the bunch of miscellaneous materials into each other. While stacks and piles can be turned over using a rake, a bin needs to be rolled over several times once in a while to get the job done. A bin’s advantage is that pests such as rats will stay away from the compost since it is hidden in the tightly shut container. You can even place the bin at the corner of your carport by Carports Sydney and it will stay undisturbed.  

If you want to buy a bin for your compost, there are several things you have got to keep in mind: 

Tensile Toughness: The container is large, and it takes a robust set of arms and hands to get it rolling. Look for the most challenging and most tenacious container on the market since it will last longer. 

Holding Dimensions: The more you fill the container, the more it won’t budge. Look for one that suits your strength and which you can handle. 

Escape Vents: There should be a system consisting of holes or leakage points in the bin to allow for foul odours and gunk to leave the cylindrical object of gardening. 

The Variety and Brand: Some are made of tensile metal and look like a garbage can. Others are made of plastic. Decide after long cogitation what your requirement is.  Yet there are ways of making your very own compost bin at home, and it will not cost you more than a couple of bucks. First, select your bin. It ought to be sturdy and stable. Use a power drill to make a few holes in it. Now hold it upright and get a few shovels of dirt inside it. Add the leftovers from your kitchen which have begun to spoil. Mix it and give it a few swirls. Dribble some liquid in it and close the lid tightly. Now drill some holes in it, and you are good to go! 

Perennial Flower Bulbs that Come Back Year After Year

There are flower bulbs which repeatedly bloom from new shoots after the year is over. Daffodils are an excellent example of a perennial bulb flower. Even the Netherlands’ gift to the world, Tulips, are perennial flowers. The only problem is that they don’t come back year after year unless given the right climate and soil. If your garden has a particular environment, they might bloom again and again. Otherwise, it would be wiser to replant them when the sowing season comes around. 

Tulips began to be planted in the West about half a millennium ago. They, therefore, require harsh Winters and Summers which bring the desert’s heat in tow. The Dutch know how to handle their Tulips very well. First, there are the sands on the shores. Then there is the water provision methodology which is very complicated. Horticulturists in the Netherlands have their Tulips undergo several changes in temperature and moisture. When the winter months come, these Tulips are ready to hibernate and emerge as brand new Tulips of a thousand and one colours when they do bloom the following year. First, you ought to choose Tulips which have received such a treatment beforehand. Ensure that seepage is plentiful in the soil where you plant these Tulip bulbs. Make sure the rhizomes of the bulbs reach a certain depth. Water them immediately after this process. After the Spring harvest, cut off the faded flowers left behind. Finally, feed them right in Spring and Autumn. 

Other flowers which are perennials besides the Daffodil or Tulip include the following:

•   The Crocus: Known by its bright purple aster-like flowers, the orange filaments inside this flower give it a beauty all its own. This flower has the tendency to spread like wildfire year after year given the right conditions. 

•   The Summer Snowflake: Don’t be fooled by the name, the Summer Snowflake, on the contrary, blossoms in Spring. The white bells which the flowers look like hang loosely from each stem. This bulb has a fragrance like hot chocolate though the odour is hard to discern for many. 

•   Siberian Squill: Its provenance is the south of Russia. The blue flowers are sharp in their electric hue. It is a tough flower which is suited to the harsh winter conditions. 

•   Grecian Windflower: It almost looks like the ordinary daisy flower. Just gazing at it is an experience in itself. While daisies are generally white, the Grecian Windflower maybe blue and pink as well in colour. 

It’s simple enough to see. Landscaping Newcastle advises that annual plants and flowers die in the Winter season. Yet perennials come back renewed with life and zest year after year. This is the beauty and magic of perennials. There are mainly Spring and Summer flower bulbs. It is good to know that many flower bulbs which are not naturally perennials, will become native to the area after a few years of intensive planting. Then they will bloom year after year, and the gardener can look at them with pride and satisfaction. 

Other flower bulbs which will return to your garden year after year are given below:

The Muscari: This flower is known by its intense blue rounded petals which hang from the stalks like purple grapes from some champagne-making district of France. They appeal to the senses and are a sight to behold. 

The Blue Giant: The open flowers have a bright blue hue. Their petals are extended backwards lending access to the greenish-yellow central filaments concentrated in a bunch-like protuberance. 

Gladiolus: This is another example of a perennial flowering plant. Its petals are bent backwards like the sound-piece of a trumpet. Also, Gladioli come in a number of colours ranging from yellow to red to purple. 

Best Time to Feed Flower Bulbs

Flower bulbs are a thing of beauty and a joy forever. When planted in a garden, they bloom during springtime into a riot of colours. The ideal period to plant some flower bulbs in your garden is the autumn season. The primary step that needs looking into is the feed or fertilizer you put into these bulbs’ soil. The soil ought to allow the water and rainfall to seep through it with ease and stability. In case, the ground has more significant clay content, add some other ingredients into it. 

Bulbs which bloom in Spring and Summer should have phosphorus mixed in well with their soil. Bonemeal is another component which should be added to the mix. For those bulbs that flower in the Spring, five 10-10-10 soluble fertilizer tablespoons should be put into the soil in the autumn season. Once the flower buds start appearing above the green foliage, repeat this process. 

However, those bulbs, which bloom in the Summer and Fall season, ought to have fertilizer or feed added to their soil on a monthly schedule. This time it should be seven tablespoons of 10-10-10 soluble fertilizer. They also must be watered regularly. Don’t let this action occur on a superficial level. Rehydrate the soil of these bulbs so that it is moist to the touch. 

A general rule of thumb to keep in mind is to fertilize the bulbs when they have arisen as stalks from the ground. Also, fertilize them when they are halfway through their full growth cycle. Finally, when the bulbs have reached their apogee, you can repeat the process for the third and last time. Be cognizant that all these bulbs blossom when their feed is taken care of on an intensive basis. So leave no stone unturned to see that the meal is given in the right amount at the right moment. Usually, twice per year is the turnover rate of this complex feed for bulbs. One would be planting season in Autumn, and the other would be when the bulbs flower spontaneously and naturally.  

Among the choice of fertilizer could be animal blood as well as crushed bones. Even manure from various animals serves as an excellent source of fertilizer. A fertilizer which is pretty high in potassium is liquid tomato mixture. Nourish your bulbs with small amounts of this fertilizer every week or so. Miracle-Glo is another good commercial fertilizer for bulbs. Usually, it is advisable to feed fertilizer to the bulbs as soon as possible instead of delaying this decision till the blossoms have gone rotten. This is because the Spring season won’t belong in coming and so time is limited. 

In Daffodils, the bulbs will absorb whatever useful natural energy they need in the soil’s form of nutrients and minerals. By fertilizing the bulbs in the early days of Spring, you set the pace for these tube-shaped flowers to fully reach their height of beauty and grandeur in late Spring. If they are still developing bulbs, they ought to be fertilized in the Fall season. 

Tulip bulbs also require planting in the Fall season. A 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 fertilizer which expresses its concentrated ingredients slowly and steadily is essential. Biannual fertilizing is necessary, and that too should be in the ratio of one pound over 50 square feet of garden terrain. 

Types of Bulbs Resistant to Nibbling and Digging by Animal Pests

Springtime is the ideal season of flowers, greenery and a pleasant climate. It is a time when lovers celebrate their romantic passion for each other. No one is immune to growing some beautiful bulbs of colourful flowers in their garden or backyard. There is a snag however which is troublesome to many an amateur gardener. That is the deer, rabbits and squirrels in the vicinity who disturb the flowers’ pristine beauty. The acronym NIMBY which stands for “Not In My Backyard” says it so well. Yet the animal kingdom exists in a net with us on this planet, and they are not cognisant of our human-made rules. Thus to prevent these otherwise harmless herbivores from disturbing the peace of your garden, it is best to take specific precautionary measures.

Among these prophylactic tactics, many gardeners tend to choose barbed wire or a wooden fence. Others put certain substances among the plants which are poisonous and repel deer, rabbits and squirrels. Yet, truth be told, such methods are not the best approach to this problem. There are other better options which you, the savvy gardener, have at your disposal. Number one among them is the planting of such bulbs in the soil which happen to be naturally resistant to these pesky herbivores. These include in their purview:

Daffodils: This flower species has a whole Greek myth behind it. We get the modern psychological term “narcissism” from these yellow flowers. There are about 12 sub-species all in all. The biggest advantage of planting these species is that they are resistant to encroachment by deer and squirrels. Furthermore, they do not require much in the way of hectic and fancy upkeep. Even rats and mice do not come near daffodils. These flowers don’t cost much and they can easily weather the cold and harsh winter months. Also growing them is a breeze.

Crocus: As far as deer-repellent flowers go, you can’t get anything better than the Crocus. Their pink, purple and lavender hues attract children and adults alike who cannot help but gaze at them in admiration. They attain full maturity between February and March. They can even grow in the shadow of a tree where they will thrive instead of wilting thereby proving that they are a hardy species.

Alliums: Another species that keeps the nimble-footed quadrupeds away, the Alliums include the onion plant among them. They also keep squirrels away. Their flowers are like bells in their physiognomy. They become fully grown by the end of Spring or the start of the scorching days of Summer. There are some which are very small, while others are pretty large in size. They go well in Zen Rock Gardens.

Snowdrop: It best blooms in March. We all know about the term “March Hare” when the lagomorphs go crazy and eccentric in their seasonal antics. Yet plant some Snowdrop seeds in your garden and the rabbits will not be nibbling on or digging beneath these flowers. These are flowers which are tenacious and born tough. The flowers are an offwhite color and they are bent over in their soil beds.  The prominence they show above their green stalks makes them an interesting choice for gardeners.

Grape Hyacinth: Small bunches of dark yet bright blue flowers droop from the branches of this plant. They appear to be minuscule grapes hence the name by which this flowering plant goes in the botanical world. The stalks can be several inches in height. These flowers also have a long garden life which is even more good news for gardeners. That they resist the onslaughts of rabbits and squirrels is always a plus point. Plant some and watch them grow into full-sized beauties right before your very own two eyes in the course of time.